Committed cyclist Jim Newman looks at how to ensure your cycling doesn’t make ‘dodgy’ knees worse.

Cycling can do a lot of good for the knees (as I explore in this post). But if one of the reasons you took up cycling is because you know you’ve already damaged your knees taking part in other sport, how can you ensure your cycling has a positive rather than negative effect?

1. Choose low gear, high cadence

Cadence is the number of revolutions the bike pedals make per minute. The lower the gear, the higher the cadence, that is, the easier it is to pedal. Ideally, a cyclist should always use the gears effectively, starting in a low gear, then increasing the gear (and lowering the cadence) as you build speed. Not everyone does that, though, often choosing a mid-range gear or two and sticking with them.

High gears require you to put more force through the knee joint. So if you have pre-existing knee pain, always start cycling in a low cadence, and never increase the gears to such an extent that you’re overly exerting the knees.

2. Choose cycling on the flat

Not always easy when you cycle in Yorkshire, but try and keep to relatively flat rides which ensure that low gears are always kind on the knees. If that’s impossible in your area, and if you’re in recovery from a recent knee injury, use a static bike to help build the knee muscles before you head out onto the roads.

When you do, start with relatively low-incline hills and build from there, always taking care to avoid doing too much too soon.

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3. Take care with clips

The big advantage of bike clips is that they create a constant connection between shoe and pedal, helping you put far more of the power your knees generate through the pedals. But there’s a potential downside.

Without clips, your feet will naturally sit on the pedals in the position that feels most natural. With them, there’s a risk of finding yourself adjusting your feet to the clips so that they over-rotate (internally or externally).

If you use clips, therefore, it’s important that you adjust your cleats on your shoes so that, when they clip into place, your feet and knees are in a natural position, and neither point in or out too far.

4. Adjust saddle positioning

If you’re cycling while in recovery mode, you want the bike saddle position to be pretty high so that the knee extends almost to full extension. The benefit of that is that when the pedals are at their highest position in a rotation your knee isn’t in deep flexion, which puts a lot of strain through the kneecap joint.

Longitudinal (that is front to rear) positioning of the saddle is also important. Ideally you want your hips and heels to be aligned to minimise the forces passing through your knee.

The size of bike, the height of the handlebars and how far you have to reach to grip them can also alter the forces you place through your knee.

If all of that sounds bewildering, I’d recommend a professional bike fit, which will address all the above points and ensure that the bike you get is best suited to your body (and your knees).

Alternatively, and given that a full bike fit can be rather expensive, listen to your body when you head out on a ride. If your knee feels sore during or after a ride adjust any one of the above parameters and test its effect next time you cycle. As long as you adjust one parameter at a time – the cleats, the saddle position, the handlebars etc – and reset things if it doesn’t work, you should gradually home in on the right set up for you.

And if, despite all the above, you feel your knee pain is getting worse, get it checked out, or phone us on 03453 052 579.

> Find out more about Jim Newman
> Discover more about sports injuries
> Discover more about your knee conditions